Food media personalities sometimes have an overblown idea of how much influence we have as tastemakers. Case in point: The success of the air fryer has very little to do with us.
Until now, The Chronicle’s food section has never even acknowledged the existence of the machine, a tabletop appliance advertised as an easy way to fry foods with just a smidgen of oil. Few legacy food media publications have engaged with air fryer cooking in any substantive way beyond a handful of incredulous product reviews. But Americans seem to have a voracious appetite for what is essentially a small convection oven.